By Ajdin Starčević, Wageningen University and Research
On a bright May morning, I boarded the train to Schiphol Airport with my Wageningen University colleagues, researcher Silke Jacobs and European Forest Resources professor Gert-Jan Nabuurs, brimming with excitement for a journey that would take us far from bustling cities and deep into one of Europe’s most surprising natural treasures. Our destination: Bosnia and Herzegovina, a country not often recognised for its immense ecological wealth. But its hidden treasure isn’t golden—it’s a vibrant green, in the form of vast, untouched forests, some of the last of their kind on the continent.
This expedition was inspired several months earlier during the kick-off meeting of WILDCARD, held in the scenic Italian village of Valbruna, nestled at the foothills of the Julian Alps. There, we met Renzo Motta, a seasoned ecology professor at the University of Turin who has been conducting environmental studies in Bosnia for over two decades. Discovering that I had roots in the region, Renzo enthusiastically invited us to join his annual spring field trip together with WILDCARD coordinator Giorgio Alberti and his colleagues from the University of Udine. This was a chance to reconnect with the Forestry Faculty at the University of Sarajevo and explore these ancient forests firsthand. As part of WILDCARD, our goal was to identify reference sites across Europe to study the effects of rewilding and proforestation—an approach focused on letting forests naturally regenerate without human intervention.
We arrived in Bosnia to a warm welcome from our hosts from the Faculty of Forestry of the University of Sarajevo: Cemal, Besim, Sead and Mehmed, who invited us to an evening barbecue. We gathered around as they briefed us on the plan for the days ahead, hinting that each day would reveal new wonders. We had no idea just how extraordinary those wonders would be.
Day 1: The Untouched Forests of Konjuh
Our first day began with an excursion to the Konjuh protected landscape, located in the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina. As we drove through the rolling hills of Bijambare, lush and vibrant under the spring sun, a sense of anticipation grew.
When we arrived, our guides Dino and Mehmed led us deep into a forest area that had remained unlogged for centuries. Walking through it felt surreal, like stepping into a fairytale. Towering beech trees stretched upwards, their thick trunks forming a canopy that cast dappled shadows on a forest floor carpeted with wild garlic (Allium ursinum). It was as though the forest was suspended in time, untouched by human hands. The sight of these giant trees stretching down steep slopes toward a gentle creek was breathtaking. And yet, our hosts assured us that even more astonishing landscapes awaited us in the coming days.
Day 2: Sarajevo’s Hidden Wilderness
On our second day, we travelled closer to Sarajevo, the country’s vibrant capital. Just an hour’s drive from the urban centre lay a pristine beech, fir, and spruce forest—a natural sanctuary almost unimaginable in its proximity to the city. The forest floor was full of deadwood, some massive fallen trees stretching over 50 meters, adding layers of texture and life to the scene. Thanks to the steep terrain and the abundance of forested land nearby, this area had largely escaped human interference. Even during the post-war period, when there was pressure to exploit these resources, the Forestry Faculty in Sarajevo successfully advocated for its preservation. Their efforts allowed us to explore this magnificent site, which ultimately became one of the chosen reference sites for the WILDCARD project.
Day 3: Sutjeska’s Primeval Wilderness
Our third day took us to Sutjeska National Park, home to one of Europe’s rarest gems—a primeval forest of over 1,400 hectares, untouched and alive with thriving biodiversity. Hiking through this ancient landscape was nothing short of extraordinary. At one point, our guide paused and pointed out a remarkable detail—just hours earlier, a bear had passed through, leaving muddy paw prints in the trail we were now following. Stumbling across these impressions in the soft earth was a humbling reminder of the wilderness that still thrives here.
With our guide, we navigated the forest’s winding paths and steep slopes, descending 350 meters to encounter one of Bosnia’s natural wonders: a majestic 70-meter waterfall cascading into crystal-clear waters.
As we trekked down, the forest transformed before our eyes. The beech-fir-spruce mix gave way to cooler, fir-dominated patches, while open areas revealed beds of wild garlic, punctuated by majestic maple trees. Every turn of the trail revealed another layer of this rich ecosystem. Standing amidst such raw beauty was a proud moment for me, a reminder of the remarkable natural heritage Bosnia still holds.
Day 4: The Rocky Slopes of Prenj
On our final day, we ventured up the rugged Prenj Mountain to experience Bosnia from a bird’s-eye perspective. This region in Herzegovina, shaped by the Mediterranean climate, presented a contrasting landscape, with hardy Bosnian pines (Pinus heldreichii) clinging to the rocky slopes. These trees, native to the Balkans, are my personal favourites—not only because they’re endemic (native) to this area but because they symbolise the resilience of the Bosnian people, standing tall and enduring challenging conditions.
As I stood on those slopes, overlooking the diverse landscapes below, I couldn’t help but feel that Bosnia and Herzegovina, like many of its Western Balkan neighbours, offers a treasure trove of research opportunities for environmental studies. Here, in a region rich in history and natural beauty, the forests stand untouched and untamed, offering glimpses into a Europe that once was—a landscape that is becoming all too rare on this continent.
Bosnia’s forests are not only a haven of biodiversity. They are a testament to nature’s resilience, a place of refuge, and an invaluable reference for understanding how ecosystems function without human interference. As we wrapped up our journey, I felt incredibly fortunate to have witnessed these landscapes and more committed than ever to supporting the conservation efforts that will ensure they remain preserved for future generations to study and appreciate.